How to Style Men’s Black Brogues

Brown brogues get all the attention. Black brogues are left in the cupboard for interviews and funerals. That’s a waste — a good pair of black brogues is sharper and more modern than brown, and far more versatile than most men realise.

First, understand the shoe

Brogueing is the decorative perforation along the seams. The more of it there is, the more casual the shoe:

• Quarter brogue: perforation only along the toe cap — the most formal.
• Semi-brogue: adds a medallion on the toe.
• Full brogue (wingtip): the wing-shaped toe cap with extensive detailing — the most casual.

Brogues can be oxfords (closed lacing, smarter) or derbies (open lacing, more relaxed). A black oxford semi-brogue is the most useful place to start.

Five ways to wear them

1. With a charcoal suit

The classic. Black and charcoal are a natural pair. Add a white shirt and a dark tie for a sharp, understated office look.

2. With grey flannel trousers

Grey trousers, a navy knit or a white Oxford shirt, and black brogues is a timeless smart-casual outfit. Flannel’s texture balances the shoe’s detail.

3. With black jeans

Slim black jeans, a black or grey roll-neck and black brogues — monochrome, modern and a little bit rock and roll.

4. With raw denim

Dark indigo jeans with a small turn-up, a white tee and a navy overshirt. The shoe elevates the denim; the denim relaxes the shoe.

5. With a navy suit

Traditionally brown is the partner for navy, but black works if everything else is sharp: crisp white shirt, dark tie, polished shoes.

What to avoid

Light-coloured chinos and shorts — the contrast is too stark. Very casual sportswear. And anything scuffed: a black shoe that isn’t polished looks worse than a brown one in the same condition.

Keeping them sharp

• Use cedar shoe trees every time you take them off.
• Brush off dirt, then apply a thin layer of black cream polish every few wears.
• Finish the toe and heel with wax polish for a subtle shine.
• Rotate with another pair so they dry out fully between wears.

Treated well, a pair of black brogues will serve you for a decade. They’re the fourth pair in our shoe collection guide for good reason.